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Famed Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja found dead after Pakistan Broad Peak avalanche

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10 climbers missing after reported avalanche in Pakistan, officials say
Andrew Matthews, Pool via Getty Images, FILE
ByJon Haworth, Habibullah Khan, Jamie Dorrington, Ivan Pereira, and Nadine El-Bawab
August 01, 2026, 1:03 PM

LONDON -- The body of famed Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja was recovered in Pakistan's Broad Peak mountain on Saturday, officials said, as rescue teams continue to search for a group of mountaineers who were caught in an avalanche on Thursday.

Rescuers found the body, the fourth recovered so far, as they combed the peak for any survivors, according to Ayaz Ahmad Shigri, the general secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

In this Jan. 21, 2021, file photo, Nirmal Purja is shown upon his arrival along with his team at the airport in Islamabad after becoming the first to summit Pakistan's K2 mountain in winter.
Farooq Naeem/AFP via Getty Images, FILE

The bodies of three other climbers, which included American Sarah Mallory Geis, were recovered Friday. Six climbers are still unaccounted as of Saturday.

Nepalese Prime Minister Balendra Shah said in a statement on social media Saturday that the fourth body was Purja.

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The Nepal-born former British Army soldier gained fame after climbing the world's 14 highest peaks in a record 189 days in 2019, an achievement featured in the Netflix documentary, "14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible."

"Mountaineering is not merely a journey to reach the summit; it is the ultimate expression of courage, discipline, sacrifice, and the indomitable self-confidence that challenges human limits," Shah said in a post on social media.

"The legacy of their courage, dedication, and contributions will forever remain alive and inspiring," Shah said of the climbers.

"No words can ease the pain of this unimaginable loss” and "the world has lost one of mountaineering’s greatest climbers, a leader who inspired millions through his courage, humility and unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than we often imagine," Elite Exped, which Purja co-founded, said in a post about the revered climber on social media.

PHOTO: In this Jan. 21, 2021, file photo, mountaineer Nirmal Purja speaks during an interview with AFP in Skardu, a city district of the Gilgit-Baltistan region in northern Pakistan.
In this Jan. 21, 2021, file photo, mountaineer Nirmal Purja speaks during an interview with AFP in Skardu, a city district of the Gilgit-Baltistan region in northern Pakistan. Renowned climber Nirmal Purja was among 10 missing after an avalanche in northern Pakistan where they were on a climbing expedition, the country's alpine club said on July 31, 2026.
Aamir Qureshi/AFP via Getty Images FILE

Purja spoke to ABC News in 2022 about his love of climbing and his dream to inspire others and honor his countrymen.

"I really wanted to uplift the name of Nepalese climbers," he said. "We are the heroes of 8,000-ers, but we never had that credibility, we are always in shadows, and now it's time to give credit to this people, and I really felt that from the bottom of my heart."

A Pakistani rescue team said Friday it also recovered the remains of two other climbers, Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy of Oman and Pur Bahadur Gurung of Nepal.

PHOTO: Pakistan Mountaineers Missing
In this photo released by the Alpine Club of Pakistan on Friday, July 31, 2026, members of a mountaineers rescue team prepare to depart from an airbase on a search operation for climbers missing after an avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak, in Skardu, in Gilgit-Baltistan's region, in northern Pakistan.
Alpine Club of Pakistan via AP

Broad Peak, where the climbers were traversing when the avalanche struck, is a 26,401-foot mountain in the Karakoram range in central Asia.

In this picture taken on Aug. 14, 2019, Broad Peak is shown in the Karakoram range of Pakistan's mountain northern Gilgit region.
Amelie Herenstein/AFP via Getty Images, FILE

The Alpine Club of Pakistan said the entire team has been out of communication since the reported avalanche but confirmed that it is working with government authorities and relevant agencies to support an immediate search-and-rescue operation.

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Rescue crews found the three dead bodies Friday using drones, according to officials. Their remains were removed from the site by helicopters.

Geis had been posting photos of the climb on her Instagram account.

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